Archive for the 'Access' Category

Come Climb at Lake Kushog

Published on March 25, 2012 in Access and News. 0 Comments

The rock and ice climbing around Lake Kushog offers wonderful opportunities to enjoy the outdoors, but amazingly it isn’t well known. The Firehouse Restaurant has reached out to the OAC to reach out and build a long-term relationship with the climbing community. Together, we have identified areas of concern and erected signage clearly communicating best practices for that area. Even a Climbers’ Special menu item has been announced to encourage climbers to refuel in the restaurant after climbing.


NPC offers explanation of fee and waiver management plan structure at Niagara Glen

Published on November 2, 2011 in Access and News. 0 Comments
Through the coordinated efforts of the OAC and the Niagara Parks Commission (NPC), the Niagara Glen now formally permits bouldering.  With the new establishment of a formal management plan for bouldering many in the bouldering community are questioning why they would pay for access to something that has been free for so long.  In response to these questions the OAC has reached out to the NPC and asked for clarification on the fee. The Niagara Parks Commission has provided a statement that explains the need for the fee, why boulderers and not other users pay, and how the funds collected from the fee are used:

“Bouldering Activities in the Niagara Glen

During the 1980′s, The Niagara Parks Commission moved to limit the recreational pursuit of cliff-face climbing within the Park, by restricting it to emergency and maintenance purposes only.  At the same time, the Commission continued to allow the recreational activity known as bouldering to take place.  Over the years, bouldering has increased in popularity and the Niagara Glen has become a noted world-wide bouldering site.  The need for a more formal program to oversee this activity was therefore needed to protect the physical, cultural and ecological integrity of the Parks and Niagara Glen.

Following consultations with the public, the Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) and other interested groups, new rules were developed to permit the continuation of this sport in the Niagara Glen. Annual Bouldering Permits will now be issued to encourage safe access by users, while protecting the greatest concentration of Species at Risk, which are found in Ontario within the Niagara Glen.  However, there are costs in doing so in terms of staffing, insurance, legal, monitoring, mapping and maintenance, which Niagara Parks would not otherwise experience, if it did not allow this sanctioned activity to occur.

As a self-funded agency of the Province of Ontario, The Niagara Parks Commission operates in a commercial manner with revenues raised reinvested back into the Park to support its much needed stewardship and preservation activities.  The bouldering community, by way of this new permit fee, will also be contributing to the responsible continuation of the sport and protection of the most sensitive aspects and nature of the Niagara Glen.”

Climbing in the Niagara Glen was first recorded in 1922.  After nearly 100 years of free access to Niagara Glen the recent growth of the sport has resulted in the need for change to allow bouldering to continue to grow.  In Ontario and around the world the climbing community and land managers are challenged with how to incorporate environmentally responsible activities on their land.  The OAC continues to believe climbing to be a low-impact self powered recreation opportunity.  We encourage climbers and boulderers to follow our code of ethics in promotion of Leave No Trace practices.  Please support this partnership by purchasing your annual bouldering permit at the Butterfly Conservatory this Fall/Winter; hours of operation here: http://www.niagaraparksnature.com/things-to-do/butterfly-conservatory.html

NPC to unveil new Niagara Glen Bouldering Policy on Oct 1st

Published on September 28, 2011 in Access. 0 Comments

The long awaited announcement of the Niagara Parks Commission’s (NPC) bouldering policy will be made at 10am on October 1st at the Niagara Glen Nature Centre (the building containing the new nature centre and store that is above the Glen). The OAC has provided recommendations and suggestions to the NPC over the last couple of years. Our understanding is that this will be a one year trial launch of the bouldering policy. Due to the timing of this announcement a more formal launch will also be made in the Spring when the Nature Centre reopens.

There will be a permit required to boulder in the Glen, which includes a signed liability waiver and an annual permit fee of $20. Initially waivers and permits will only be available at the Nature Centre (which will be closing for the season) and the Butterfly Conservatory (year round). The NPC is working to downloadable waiver forms on their website. The OAC still has some concerns about the specific details and implementation of the policy but the OAC is encouraged by the NPC’s willingness to both listen to our concerns and continue to work with the OAC.  The OAC is very optimistic that a mutually agreeable final plan will emerge over the next year.
We will be posting the new policy as soon as it is made public.
Please show your support for the NPC and OAC by being one of the first boulderers to purchase you permit!
Official annoucement here: http://ontarioaccesscoalition.com/downloads/Niagara-Glen-Bouldering-Advisory.doc

Updated announcement: http://ontarioaccesscoalition.com/downloads/Niagara-Glen-Bouldering-Announcement.doc

More info here: http://www.niagaraparks.com/

Additionally, the Friends of the Glen are organizing a Glen hike and clean up, for anyone interested, to coincide with this announcement.

Crag Access status update

Published on September 21, 2011 in Access. 0 Comments

The Crag Access list download document has been updated with the latest access information. You can download the detailed pdf for full information here. 
 
The OAC researches and discusses climbing access directly with Park and Conservation staff, land owners, and other resource managers to provide the climbing community with the most accurate access information. The download includes updated access information for popular areas such as Lion’s Head, the Swamp, and Devil’s Glen amongst others.

Please note that while the webpage is being populated with the most current information, climbers should refer to the downloadable pdf document for info about Ontario’s crags and boulders during this time.  The careful reader may have also noticed that ice climbing areas have been removed from the list. A separate dedicated document is being developed to inform best practice for those that enjoy swinging tools into the frozen medium! Keep checking back – there’s more to come!

Swamp Access update

Published on March 20, 2011 in Access. 0 Comments

The Ontario Access Coalition was contacted by officials from the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) in early February 2011 regarding climbing development that has been occurring within the Kolapore Uplands Management Area known as the “Swamp”.  OAC volunteers and MNR Officials met on Thursday, February 17, 2011 at the MNR offices in Owen Sound to discuss.  After an open and honest dialogue, the MNR asked the OAC to share the following messaging with the climbing community.
 
“The Ministry of Natural Resources is aware of the activities at “the Swamp” and we have concerns regarding compliance issues and impacts to the local ecology. We are currently assessing the site to determine if the access route, the climbing routes and the use in general is compatible with the specifics of the site. MNR appreciates the efforts of OAC and the mandate you convey. We look forward to working with you.”

The OAC has provided MNR representatives with information regarding proven successful climbing management options that are available and currently in use at other areas in the province.  Assessment of the site is needed as the MNR is required to protect identified species at risk and their habitats in Ontario under the 2007 Species At Risk Act.  Climbers wishing to learn more about this Act and the mandate of the MNR should visit http://www.mnr.gov.on.ca/en/Business/Species/2ColumnSubPage/289031.html

Bruce Peninsula Access Update

Published on June 22, 2010 in Access. 0 Comments

In an effort to keep you up to date on Ontario Access information here’s the latest update for some popular crags spots on the Bruce Peninsula. If you know something we don’t please send us an email so we can share.

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Halfway Log Dump Opening

Published on May 19, 2010 in Access. 0 Comments

The OAC is very pleased announce that as of May 22, 2010, bouldering is permitted on designated boulders at Halfway Log Dump (HWLD) in Bruce Peninsula National Park. The re-opening of HWLD to bouldering is the result of a “Recreational Activity Assessment Process”, completed in partnership by Parks Canada and the Ontario Access Coalition. This opening is a great opportunity for the Ontario Bouldering community to enjoy the area while acting as a steward for the Park. See Official BPNP bulletin here. Bouldering at HWLD was closed spring of 2003, to protect the natural resources of the park from inappropriate development of boulder problems. Boulderers interested in climbing here should continue reading below.
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