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2012 Ontario Crags Calendar update

Thank you for those of you who helped make the Ontario Crags calendar fund-raising drive a success!  This project raised over $1,700 towards supporting sustainable climbing access initatives in the province.

It has recently been brought to our attention that dates for the month of July are incorrect on the OAC 2012 Crags Calendar.  The printing company has kindly offered to correct the misunderstanding free of charge and a limited edition of corrected calendars are currently available for exchange at the Toronto MEC. We apologize for the inconvenience and hope this results in many accidental extended climbing vacations being booked!

2011 Top Ten Access Sends

Hey there Ontario rock buckaroo.  Wonder what good stuff the OAC did on behalf of the climbing community in 2011? Here’s the Top Ten Ontario Access accomplishments of 2011.

1. Helping Land Managers understand
OAC volunteers presented climbing management best practices to the Niagara Escarpment Parks and Opens Spaces Council (NEPOSS Council). The presentation reached NEPOSS Council members who consist of all major land management agencies for the Niagara Escarpment. The Niagara Escarpment hosts many of the most popular cliffs and bouldering areas in the province.
2. Legal support for climbers and land managers
Borden Ladner Gervais LLP (BLG), Canada’s largest law firm, signs on to provide pro bono legal council to the OAC. BLG will provide valuable expertise to the OAC in helping land managers to understand, minimize and mitigate liability associated with climbing access.

3. Help from the Access Fund

OAC wins sponsorship from the Access Fund to attend the National Access Stewardship summit conference in Colorado. MEC, OAC, and private contributions enable an OAC representative to attend the conference, network with peers, attend seminars, and learn from other access groups across the continent.

4. Formal Access to Bouldering Established at Niagara Glen
Ontario’s largest and most popular bouldering area, the Niagara Glen, was nearly closed in 2009. In just two years, the OAC worked to turn this situation into one in which the NPC announce the formal management of bouldering, thus legitimizing bouldering as an permissible activity at Niagara Glen. With the introduction of a waiver and fee system, and some restrictions on bouldering access, the Niagara Glen is now formally open to bouldering and recognized as an environmentally sustainable activity. The OAC is continuing to work with the NPC to refine the plan for the benefit of all.
5. Earth Day Halton
2011 saw the re-instatement of  Earth Day activities with Conservation Halton. The OAC has committed to a multi-year plan to help work to try to eliminate the invasive species Garlic Mustard that threatens the forests of Conservation Halton. This year, think about what you are doing to help save mother earth and consider joining us to help preserve the environment on Conservation Halton’s lands.  Enjoy a BBQ with friends and have a chance to win some great prizes.
6 Niagara Escarpment Commission Conference
OAC volunteers presented the results of a qualitative research study on sustainable bouldering at Niagara Glen to the Niagara Escarpment Commission Conference. The presentation brings the value of bouldering, access issues and the importance of working with the OAC to the attention of various land managers in a new light.
7. Volunteers Recognized
OAC volunteer Harry Hoediono and longtime ACC member Kit Moore win the 29th annual Conservation Halton award of excellence. Amongst other items, Harry and Kit have worked on behalf of the OAC and Conservation Halton to establish and implement the installation of hundreds of fixed top anchors at Buffalo Crag and Rattlesnake Point. The anchors facilitate safety for climbers while helping to minimize environmental impact to the area.
8. Old Baldy Re-bolting
With only a handful of routes left to go, the Old Baldy re-bolting project reaches near completion with hundreds of aging pieces of fixed hardware having been replaced by volunteers with new hardware donated by MEC. Grey Sauble Conservation Authority has been very supportive in facilitating the project, so in 2012 please buy a permit and check out the great work that has been done at Old Baldy by whipping on a few of the new bolts.
9. New, Improved OAC website
2011 saw the launch of the new OAC website to provide easier access to information and improve the experience of visitors. The site allows for online membership enrolment and online volunteer signup. If you haven’t checked it out yet, there are loads of resources on the site for climbers and Land Managers, the latest confirmed access information for Ontario crags, and more. Also, don’t forget to like our Facebook fanpage to get all the news from the site and more right on Facebook.
10. You’re Invited
Recognizing the value of including climbing and bouldering in thier management planning activites, Bruce Peninsula National Park has invited the OAC to participate in formal park planning processes. A photo of boulderers is featured on the cover of the planning brochure delivered to every home on the Bruce Peninsula.

 

This is just a taste of all of the great work done by OAC volunteers this year.  If you would like to help out too or find out more about what the great steps towards improved access taken last year check out www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com.

Presentation to the Niagara Escarpment Parks and Open Spaces Systems Council

On Friday, October 18, OAC volunteers presented to the Niagara Escarpment Parks and Open Spaces System (NEPOSS) Council.  The presentation represented a significant opportunity for the climbing community to reach out to a large group of conservation land managers ranging from the Ministry of Natural Resources, Ontario Parks, Conservation Authorities, the Niagara Park Commission,, municipalities, the Ontario Heritage Trust, Bruce Trail Conservancy and Parks Canada.  The presentation introduced the mission and objectives of the Ontario Access Coalition (OAC), identified collaborative projects between the OAC and NEPOSS Council members, and  promoted climbing and its management as an environmentally sustainable activity.

To become more familiar with the NEPOSS Council, please visit their website at http://www.niagaraescarpmentontario.ca/     

The following  is a brief introduction to the NEPOSS Council: 

The NEPOSS Council is organized to advance the NEPOSS objectives identified in the Niagara Escarpment Plan. It was created in recognition of a need to foster dialogue on NEPOSS issues and improve liaison, shared resources, and coordinated action among various NEPOSS agencies.            

The Council provides advice to the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) and the Niagara Escarpment Commission (NEC) on NEPOSS policies and programs and bring awareness to Council issues.

 Key Council Responsibilities include:

  • Providing effective leadership for coordinated park management and stewardship
  • Protecting natural and cultural heritage features of NEPOSS
  • Supporting the growth of NEPOSS through land securement initiatives
  • Building strong relationships with key stakeholders to address common park and open space issues and interests
  • Working together to provide an interconnected system of trails and educational and recreational opportunities

 

With the goal in mind of  educating Council members on climbing management, the presentation encouraged incorporating climbing as an environmentally compatible activity where appropriate on the Niagara Escarpment through sharing best practices and case studies of access successes in the province.

The response to the presentation was very encouraging and the presentation was well received.   Discussions revealed that several Council members had climbing experience ranging from climbing at Buffalo Crag, years of climbing gym membership, to South American glacier travel.

 Both the OAC and the NEPOSS Council will be posting copies of the presentation on their respective websites. The OAC looks forward to continuing to work with the Council and its members in the near future.

A big thanks to the OAC volunteers who took time out of their personal obligations to research, create and deliver the presentation on behalf of the climbing community.

Canada’s largest law firm signs on to support access

The OAC is pleased to announce a new sponsor: the law firm of Borden Ladner Gervais LLP.  BLG will assist the OAC in responding to landowners’ concerns about climbing-related liability.   BLG is Canada’s largest law firm. Many of its lawyers are active climbers.  Dan Zacks of BLG’s Toronto office has climbed for over a decade–primarily on the Escarpment–and will work with the OAC’s Board of Directors. 
 

Niagara Glen official new rules announced

Check out  http://www.niagaraparksnature.com/things-to-do/bouldering.html for the latest information on the new bouldering program at the Niagara Glen!

Details from the Niagara Parks Nature website:  Bouldering Permits will be available for purchase ($20 fee and signed waiver required) at the Niagara Glen Nature Centre (previously known as The Feather in the Glen), located at 3050 Niagara Parkway, Niagara Falls, Ontario.  Permits can also be purchased at the Butterfly Conservatroy, located at 2565 Niagara Parkway, Niagara Falls, Ontario.

Completed waiver forms must be signed and returned to either the Nature Centre or the Butterfly Conservatory for verification. 

Please have photo ID with you when submitting your form.

The following is a list of resources you can download relating to bouldering in the Niagara Glen:

OAC Wins Sponorship to Attend Access Fund’s National Access & Stewardship Summit

The OAC will be attending  the 2011 National Access and Stewardship Conference hosted by the Access Fund.  This year’s conference is in Golden, Colorado and runs from Friday, September 30 to Sunday, October 2.  The conference represents a great opportunity to network, learn and provide insight into facilitating climbing access in Ontario.  The OAC is able to attend this conference thanks to financial support from two great organizations.
 
The OAC has been awarded funding to attend the conference from the Access Fund and Mountain Equipment Co-op.   The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock, ice, mountaineering, and bouldering. www.theaccessfund.org
Canada’s Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC) has stepped forward with additional funding to support our representation at the conference.  A familiar retailer to most climbers, MEC’s support has been instrumental in helping climbing access in Ontario. www.mec.ca
 
Attending on behalf of the OAC is Director, Renu Monica Chattha. Renu’s work with the OAC  has kept popular crags in the Beaver Valley/Collingwood area open and promoted climbing as eco-tourism in Grey, Bruce and Sauble counties. The OAC would like to sincerely thank the Access Fund, MEC and Renu for making this possible.
 
The 2011 National Access & Stewardship Summit presentations will cover a range of topics, including stewardship and education, local support and mobilization, land conservation, and public policy.  The educational summit  brings activists and volunteers together to learn about ways to preserve access to places we love and protect them for future generations. To learn more about the summit follow the link below.
http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.7553843/k.C86A/2011_National_Access__Stewardship_Summit.htm

Recap of 2011 OAC Annual General Meeting

The second annual general meeting of the Ontario Access Coalition was hosted on June 15 at True North climbing gym. A good turnout from the climbing community was in attendance that evening despite the meeting coinciding with the final game of the Stanley Cup. The law firm of Blakes, Cassels and Graydon provided their expertise at the event ensuring proper formal protocols for a fair and equitable election process. The event saw several changes to the members of the board.

Departing board members Jeremy Nathan and Loïc Markley dedicated a great deal of their personal time in the last year to help climbing access. If you see them at the crag or the gym please remember to thank them for their positive and constructive contribution to access efforts. Thank you Loïc and Jeremy for all of the help!

New to the board this year is Renu Monica Chattha. Over the last year, Renu has made huge contributions to the OAC in terms of building relationships with land mangers and local community stakeholders in the Beaver Valley, Collingwood, and on the Bruce Peninsula. Renu is knowledgeable and passionate about access and is an active member in the local community around her home of Flesherton.

The excitement during the formal elections at the AGM was the close race for the open Director position. Rio Penabella and Justin Dwyer were both nominated for the position. Justin has provided invaluable information on escarpment endangered species and continues to assist with Mount Nemo access. While Rio, using his social media expertise, has set-up and continues to spearhead the OAC’s social media presence in order to help the OAC reach out to the climbing community. The 15-14 vote turned out in favour of Rio. With such a close vote, the OAC board has invited Justin to attend and contribute at board meetings going forward. With the initiative and drive Justin shows in the community, we are sure he is ready for the challenge.

Unfortunately, a number of individuals showed up late to the meeting and missed the vote, while others arrived with the expectation they could become members that night and immediately vote. Like many charities and not-for-profit organizations, the OAC is required to approve new membership and does so during regular meetings. For the 2012 AGM the OAC will look to ensure that this is clearly communicated to help avoid this issue in the future.

At the end of the formal proceedings a lengthy question period ensued where the Board reviewed the 2011 OAC goals with the attendees (Click HERE to see the 2011 OAC Goals). Lots of great ideas flowed as the current state of Ontario climbing access, and the strategy and reasoning driving OAC actions were discussed. The OAC is looking to add an FAQ section to our webpage to address common questions, and concerns. We continue to ask for the assistance of you, the climbers of Ontario, to identify and inform the OAC of developing issues. Volunteers, as before, are needed for special projects, and we encourage members possessing leadership and initiative to check out our volunteer section here: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/join/volunteers/.

Following the meeting and question period, a portion of the Madaleine Sorkin “Mad Tour” film and slide show was presented, despite the last minute absence of Madaleine herself due unforeseen circumstances. A big, sincere “THANK YOU” to everyone from the climbing community who took the time to come out to the AGM. We hope to see you at the crag!

OAC Annual General Meeting

We are pleased to announce the annual general meeting of the OAC on Wednesday, June 15 at True North climbing gym. The meeting begins promptly at 7pm.

More details to follow shortly so stay tuned. We hope to see you there!

Halfway Log Dump 2011

Halfway Log Dump- site hosts 2011
Another great season of bouldering at Halfway Log Dump is here. So many people are asking how they can help the OAC keep crags open. Well, this is your chance to help!

The OAC and Bruce Peninsula National Park are looking for help from the climbing community in the form of volunteer weekend Site Hosts.  Site Hosts, like a Camp host act as stewards or Caretakers for the area during their time volunteering. The Site Host program was a huge success in 2010. and we are asking again for the support of the climbing community for volunteers for 2011. If you want to help access efforts and become a Site Host for a weekend click here to fill in the volunteer application.

The OAC has updated the popular and free bouldering guide for 2011. The guide this year features more problems, more projects, more pictures, and better topos. If you download this guide we hope that you will take the time to become an OAC member, or make donation if you already are a member. Click HERE to download the new “2011 HWLD Interpretive bouldering guide”.  You can print this guide to for a cool guidebook.

What’s a Site Host do?
Site hosts act as the ambassador for Halfway Log Dump while they volunteer. The host acts to ensure everyone is having a good time, communicates the rules that are in place, points the endangered Lakeside Daisy, explains bouldering to curious tourists, and of course knows all the beta on every problem ;)
These honoured volunteers will receive luxurious pre-paid parking ($11.70 per day) courtesy of Bruce Peninsula National Park, the thanks and respect of their fellow climbers, and the knowledge that you did something for the sport you love!

Who makes a good site host?
If you like to boulder outside, can get yourself to the Bruce Peninsula, and are interested in helping access in Ontario you would be a great site host.

I would like to help, but I have never been to Halfway Log Dump. Can I still volunteer as a site host?
It might be your first visit or your hundred and first visit to Halfway Log Dump. This honour is still open to you. We can tell you what you need to know. It’s not hard. You can put it on your resume and land that promotion you’ve been after.

But if I go there I want to focus on climbing
The time commitment of site host at the boulders is minimal and can be incorporated into a regular day out easily. You will be walking by other boulderers and they will be walking by you. Talking other boulders you may discover that they know something you don’t about the latest lines, newest beta, local weather, local dining, local plants, your future spouse, etc.

“Clean & Climb” Metcalfe Rock

Join the OAC and Free Spirit tours for a “Clean & Climb” at Metcalfe Rock on Sunday, May 29 from 10:00am until 1:30pm

http://www.freespirit-tours.com/events/

Free Spirit tours originally started this event as a garbage clean up around Metcalfe Rock after the spring melt  in the year 2000. Since then they have added to it by to spreading wood chips along the trails thanks to “Blue Mountain Four Season Landscaping”. If you have a wheelbarrow or a rake please bring it along.
In exchange for people coming out and donating their time and energy we have some great prizes to give away that have been donated by local stores. Additionally, the OAC will be chipping in on the prize front with two sets of draws and more for the lucky winners.

We hope you can join the OAC and Free Spirit tours for this great chance to help keep Metcalfe rock clean and to show the local community and land managers that climbers care.