Submit your photos for the 2018 OAC Crags Calendar

Dear amateur and professional photographers, have you ever wanted to see your work published and hung on walls? We are putting together our annual Ontario Crags calendar and we need your help! Please consider donating a photo to help raise awareness and funds in support of the Ontario Access Coalition.

Mike Penney on “The Big Boss” at the Swamp Photo by Dennis Barnes

The Ontario Crags calendar aims to celebrate and highlight the wide variety of climbing that Ontario has to offer. We want to showcase everything from as many different crags and seasons as possible — ICE, SPORT, TRAD and BOULDERING are all honoured here. Valid photo submissions must have LANDSCAPE orientation (i.e. horizontal), and be of climbers at Ontario crags only (of course!).
Please send your best shots to Bonnie at by THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5th for a chance to have your photo featured and credited in the calendar! Chosen entrants will get a free copy of the 2018 calendar as well as a credit complete with your name and website.

Thanks in advance for your efforts to support the OAC!

Leslie Timms on “You’ve Been Hibbed” at Lion’s Head Photo by Colin Field

Summer 2017 Newsletter

In this Summer 2017 episode of the OAC newsletter:

  1. Beaver Valley Climbing Festival Recap and Feedback
  2. OAC Annual General Meeting Highlights
  3. Sharing Knowledge: Alpinist magazine discusses conservation and climbing on the Niagara Escarpment.

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BVCF Recap and Feedback

On July 14-16, the 5th annual Beaver Valley Climbing Festival saw almost 300 climbers and community members come out to Roy Rob Dog Farm in our beautiful Beaver Valley. Climbers and friends of all abilities and experience took part in clinics, enjoyed good food, great company, and awesome live music. We are already anticipating the 2018 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival.

Following the festival, we sent out an email requesting suggestions on how we can improve for next year. Thank you to all who took the time and provided feedback to the event organizers. Your feedback will directly help us improve next year’s BVCF. Here are some of the ways in which next year’s BVCF will be better than this year’s.

Bathrooms. In the past, our land use agreement put the responsibility on the farm’s owner to secure toilet rentals. We have renegotiated the agreement so that, in the future, the OAC will be responsible for toilet rentals. We will be sure to have the appropriate amount of units.
Space. It is awesome to see the BVCF continue to grow year after year. Given this growth, we will expand the campsite next year, including a separate area for families. This way, we can accommodate everyone and continue to share our love of climbing.

Thanks to everyone that came out. We look forward to seeing you next year! And once again, thanks to our headline sponsors: Boulderz Climbing Centre, True North Climbing, Arc’Teryx; title sponsors: Climber’s Rock, The Junction Climbing Centre; and major sponsors: The Alpine Club of Canada, On The Rocks Climbing, Free Spirit Tours, One Axe Pursuits, Ontario Resoles, Overhang Adventures. We couldn’t have done it without you!

OAC AGM Highlights

The OAC board of directors hosted an Annual General Meeting on June 26th 2017 at True North Climbing. The AGM is a once-a-year meeting in which members can come out, hear about the OAC’s updates, and take part in the discussions that shape the OAC. Our post summarizes the discussions:

We hope to see you at next year’s AGM, scheduled for June 2018.

Conservation and Climbing on The Niagara Escarpment (via Alpinist magazine)

As climbers, we are lucky to explore beautiful yet inaccessible places. Our privileged position often inspires a feeling of responsibility towards these places and the wildlife that they harbour. We have the power to go beyond simply enjoying these places—we can act as stewards and help preserve them.

Unfortunately, our actions may have negative impacts on the places that we love, even if these impacts may be unintentional. As climbers, it is our responsibility to remain informed on how to best enjoy the crags we frequent, and applying best practices can minimize our impact on the environment.

We recommend this long-form reporting from Alpinist magazine:
It can help you make more informed decisions and help you understand the complexity that surrounds climbing on the Niagara Escarpment. We invite you to read the article, share it with your fellow climbers, and discuss.

Q&A from the 2017 OAC Annual General Meeting

Every year, the Ontario Access Coalition holds an Annual General Meeting. We appreciate True North’s support in hosting us this past June 26th, 2017. The short formal portion of the meeting allows OAC members to elect Directors for the coming year (as legally mandated). Afterwards, the AGM gives us the opportunity to connect with the membership in a loosely structured Q&A discussion session.

Discussions during the Q&A included:
* the then-upcoming Beaver Valley Climbing Festival (the Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section offered support);
* updates on Metcalfe restrooms and improvements at Devil’s Glen;
* offers to improve the social media and general PR presence (including an Instagram account);
* how to better disseminate the gym to crag brochures (in every guidebook & via Conservation Halton);
* discussion of Conservation Halton’s strong support for climbing and the advisability of replacing old pins with bolts;
* questions about Algonquin Highlands (James Cooper Trail, Kushog) and the Hailburton Highlands Water Trails;
* questions about how to get involved (mail and outreach efforts;
* questions about the financials (will be lightly edited to break down outgoing donations (SO Ice Fest, Conservation Halton ice climbing signs).

Thanks to those who came out to the meeting!

2017 AGM materials (minutes, access sends, survey results, financials)

Registration for 2017 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival now open!

Preparations for the 2017 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival are well underway. Join the OAC and over 200 fellow climbers on July 14-16 for a weekend of climbing, camping, supper and entertainment at the Rob Roy Dogsled Farm!

Register for the Beaver Valley Climbing Festival

Thanks to our headline sponsors Boulderz, True North, and Arc’teryx! Members of Boulderz, True North, and Climber’s Rock get 10% off their festival tickets.

boulderz True NorthArc'teryx

as well as our title sponsor Climber’s Rock!

Niagara Glen parking clarification

We’ve received this response from Niagara Glen park staff, in response to a question about Niagara Glen parking.

Every annual parking pass, including the one that comes with the Bouldering Permit, purchased for the Niagara Glen can have up to 2 license plates from the same household. These however, cannot be purchased at the machines, as they only accept the one plate. Individuals can buy the annual parking passes for 2 plates at the Butterfly Parking Booth with one of the attendants or from the Falls Parking office. Also note, since the change to the policy that permits up to 2 plates was only introduced on Jan 1, 2017, annual parking passes purchased prior to this policy change would only be eligible for the 1 licence plate.

[If you have] a valid bouldering permit from October 2016, [your] bouldering permit is still valid. By presenting this bouldering permit at the Butterfly Conservatory, [you] should [receive] a parking pass valid until the current bouldering permit expires.

OAC Annual General Meeting: June 26, 2017

The OAC invites all members to partake in our 2017 annual general meeting on June 26, 2017. It’s a great opportunity to ask questions about the organization and our on-going projects in addition to sharing your input on the future direction of the OAC.

The meeting will be held at True North Climbing (75 Carl Hall Road Unit 14, Downsview Park, Toronto, ON) on Monday June 26th at 7:30 PM. Discounted climbing daypasses ($17) are available for all attendees (but not required to attend!)

To be eligible to vote at the AGM, one is required to be a member of the Ontario Access Coalition. To allow for the processing of new members, please ensure applications are submitted prior to June 9th. Please visit our membership page at for further details.

The OAC is very interested in increasing its capacity by attracting new ideas, leadership, and energy. At this meeting, we will elect three members to the Board of Directors (all for a two-year term). As always, we are also looking for portfolio managers and general volunteers. While members can be nominated to the Board at the AGM, any nominations submitted by June 9th will have their profiles distributed to the membership in advance. This will facilitate a structured voting process. Interested members are encouraged to contact the OAC in advance.

Potential board members should have:
– An interest in (learning about) outdoor climbing access issues in Ontario
– A varied skill set with a self-starter attitude
– A positive, proactive team-based approach to problem solving

As a board member the individual will:
– Attend bi-monthly board meetings
– Lead projects and/or access portfolios
– Participate in developing and executing the OAC’s strategic plan

Further details will be provided to members 14 days prior to the AGM. If you do not receive notification by email, please send us a note (

2017 Niagara Escarpment Plan and Climbing Access

by Patrick Lam, on behalf of the OAC Board

Following community consultations, the Ontario government has released the final version of the Niagara Escarpment Plan. Because much of Southern Ontario climbing occurs on the Niagara Escarpment, and because the Niagara Escarpment Commission has the power to control the use of the Escarpment (even on private land), the Plan is tremendously significant to Ontario climbers. The final version of the Plan incorporates feedback from the climbing community. Thank you for your help; together, we helped preserve access to Ontario climbing!

Impact of the new Plan

The Ontario Access Coalition does not expect immediate changes to climbing access as a result of the new Plan. As always, climbing access is tenuous and may be threatened by impacts by climbers and other visitors. Demonstrating stewardship and following Leave No Trace principles can help position climbers as a net positive for our open spaces.

More specifically, here’s what the Plan says about climbing. Rock climbing is now explicitly permitted in parks and open spaces where a climbing management plan exists. Some of our strongest partners are conservation authorities (CAs). Our understanding is that, in collaboration with the Ontario Access Coalition, CAs have developed plans for Niagara Glen, Rattlesnake Point/Buffalo Crag/Bottleglass, Mount Nemo, Kelso, and Old Baldy.

We continue to work with CAs and the Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry to develop climbing management plans for other areas. A general principle that helps with climbing access is that the Niagara Escarpment Plan generally permits existing uses even if they are non-conforming.

Nature Reserves

The Plan contains a classification of parks and open space. The most sensitive classification is that of a Nature Reserve, to which access “will not be widely promoted [… and] activities limited to those that can further scientific understanding and education”. Many historically significant Ontario climbing areas, such as Lion’s Head, lie within Nature Reserves. Previous proposed plans explicitly disallowed climbing in Nature Reserves; we asked community input to focus on this particular aspect. The current plan does not contain a prohibition. However, climbers should be especially careful about impact in these areas, for which nature preservation is the key objective.


The Niagara Escarpment Commission has posted the plan at

OAC 2017 Strategic Plan

We’re pleased to publish our strategic plan, which will guide our efforts in the next few years. The strategic plan includes goals of advocating for access to climbing areas; strengthening community involvement and outreach; and promoting environmental stewardship.

Please find our plan at the following page:

As always, we welcome new volunteers to help us achieve our goals. Please get in touch with us using the contact link on the website or by emailing

Beta for 2017 Niagara Glen Parking

The Niagara Parks Commission has announced its parking fees for 2017. These fees apply to all parks users arriving by car.

Boulderers who are climbing at the Niagara Glen need a climbing permit, which can be obtained at the Butterfly Conservatory. This climbing permit costs $20 per year. Holders of a climbing permit also receive an annual parking permit (which would normally cost $55 for the year or $25 for a daily pass), which is valid for two license plates.

We encourage climbers to demonstrate stewardship of this unique natural area and to apply Leave No Trace principles at the crag. The Ontario Access Coalition is supporting a volunteer-led Glen cleanup on June 3rd. More details about the cleanup will be coming tomorrow.

Niagara Parks has been a valued partner of the Ontario Access Coalition; our strong relationship has helped keep the Glen open despite access challenges caused by the its popularity.

The press release from Niagara Parks, reproduced below, contains the complete details about parking.

Niagara Parks Offers Daily and Year-Round Parking Pass Options

Niagara Falls, ON – The Niagara Parks Commission is pleased to announce several parking options, including both annual and daily parking pass programs, which are designed to enhance the overall visitor experience and provide greater value when visiting Niagara Parks.

A Niagara Parks’ annual parking pass can be used to enjoy unlimited parking at selected lots throughout Niagara Parks for a one-time fee of $55 (tax included)*. For frequent visitors, venue specific annual passes have also been created for the Niagara Parks’ Floral Showhouse, the Botanical Gardens/Butterfly Conservatory and for the Niagara Glen Nature Centre.

New this year, all annual parking passes will allow for up to two vehicles (two licence plate numbers) to be registered by an annual pass holder. Passes can be purchased online or obtained at each pay and display station, as well as at Niagara Parks’ Rapidsview Licensing Office and Falls Parking Lot.

Daily passes can also be purchased at any paid parking lot or pay and display station within the Park*. For more information on parking options or to purchase your annual pass online, please visit:, or call: (905) 356-0943. (*see attached Fact Sheet for further details on paid parking locations and offerings).


Type of Pass Cost (Tax Included)
Annual Niagara Parks Parking Pass: $55.00
Annual Floral Showhouse Parking Pass: $30.00
Annual Niagara Glen Parking Pass, or
Seasonal parking pass (May to October): $15.00
Annual Botanical Gardens and Butterfly Conservatory Parking Pass: $15.00
All Day Niagara Parks Parking Pass: $25.00

The Niagara Parks Commission is committed to a vision of Ontario’s Niagara Parks as one that Preserves a rich heritage, Conserves natural wonders, and Inspires people world-wide. Founded in 1885, The Niagara Parks Commission is an Operational Enterprise Agency of the Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Sport. Its mission is to protect the natural and cultural heritage along the Niagara River for the enjoyment of visitors while maintaining financial self-sufficiency.

Niagara Parks Paid Parking Facilities
Niagara Parks maintains over 70 parking areas, 13 of which are paid parking lots:

Niagara Glen – Stairways lead to 4 km (2.5 miles) of paths that wind through a pristine pocket of Carolinian Forest, past boulders left behind as the Falls eroded through the area thousands of years ago. Metered parking will be available from May to October, as well as annual parking passes. Bouldering permit holders can present their permit at the Niagara Glen Nature Centre (or the Butterfly Conservatory) to receive an annual parking pass.

Seeking Halfway Log Dump Site Hosts for 2017

Are you a boulderer who is looking for a way to help the OAC keep Ontario bouldering areas open? This is your chance to help! Enjoy time at one of Ontario’s premier bouldering crags while giving back to the community by becoming a site host at Halfway Log Dump!

Tyler Janzen bouldering, photo: Anne Tong

Tyler Janzen bouldering, photo: Anne Tong.

The OAC and Bruce Peninsula National Park are looking for help from the climbing community in the form of volunteer weekend Site Hosts. Site Hosts, like Camp Hosts, act as stewards and caretakers for the area. The Site Host program has been a huge success since its launch in 2010. The OAC and the Park are once again looking again for volunteers for 2017. If you would like to help access efforts and become a Site Host for a weekend, please fill out the form below:

OAC 2017 site host application form

What does a Site Host do?

I think of Site Hosts as being like the friendly guy/girl at the gym. Site hosts act as ambassadors for Halfway Log Dump. They ensure everyone is having a good time, communicate the rules that are in place, point out the endangered Lakeside Daisy (“see it right over there?”), explain bouldering to curious tourists and, of course, know all the beta on every problem ;). These honoured volunteers will receive free camping! (as available), and pre-paid parking at the park. This is all courtesy of Bruce Peninsula National Park as a thanks to volunteers.

Who makes a good site host?

If you like to boulder outside, can get yourself to the Bruce Peninsula, and are interested in helping maintain climbing access in Ontario, you will be a great site host! Even if you’re not an outdoor boulderer, you can still be a site host—one year, we had a host on crutches!

I would like to help, but I have never been to Halfway Log Dump. Can I still volunteer as a site host?

It might be your first visit or your 101st visit to Halfway Log Dump. This honour is still open to you. We can tell you what you need to know. It’s not hard. You can put it on your resume and land that promotion you’ve been after.

For an up-to date look at Halfway, Joe Ho’s beautiful new guidebook is available for purchase at your local climbing gym, MEC store, or online through the Ontario Climbing Guidebook Shop.

Ontario Climbing interview about Joe Ho guidebook
Buy Joe Ho guidebook through Ontario Climbing Shop

An older guide for Halfway Log Dump is also available for free from the OAC. If you download this guide we hope that you will take the time to become an OAC member, or make a donation if you are already a member.

HWLD Interpretive Bouldering guidebook

Yeah, but, if I go there I want to focus on climbing

The time commitment of site hosts at the boulders is minimal and can easily be incorporated into a regular day at the crag. You will be walking by other boulderers and they will be walking by you. In talking to other boulderers, you may discover that they know something you don’t. You could learn about the latest lines, new beta, local weather, best dining, local plants, or a shortcut home.

A big thanks to those of you who apply!